Carpet Cleaning

• Vacuuming the carpet dry first, before any water or solution goes down
• Pre-spray on traffic lanes and stains, left to dwell before extraction
• A hot water extraction pass, followed by a second dry pass
• Sofa cushions, arms and backs worked by hand with a smaller tool
• Foam blocks or foil placed under furniture legs so they do not mark
• The pile groomed afterwards, so it dries standing up instead of matted

• Stain removal is not guaranteed. Dye, bleach and old pet urine can be set into the fiber for good, and a clean will not lift what has already changed the color.
• The padding underneath. When urine has soaked through the carpet into the pad, that is a replacement job and it is quoted on its own.
• Heavy pieces. Beds, pianos and full bookcases usually stay where they are and the work goes around them.

• Stairs, which usually get counted by the step instead of falling under a room
• Wool, silk and viscose rugs, which need lower heat and different chemistry
• Pet urine, which has to be found and treated apart from the general clean
• Sectionals, where the price follows the seats and cushions rather than the room

The cleaning is the short part; the drying is what takes the day. Humid weather, closed-up rooms and dense or wool fiber all stretch it, and furniture should stay off the carpet until the pile is dry.

Book this when vacuuming no longer helps, after a spill, or before selling or handing back a property. Fabrics need drying time afterwards, so plan the day around it.

• How long until I can walk on it and put the furniture back?
• The pet spots — is treating those in the price, or is it on top?
• Do you move furniture, or do you want the rooms cleared before you get here?